Barrel Cutting, continued

     We begin by deciding to only remove only 1 1/4 inches of barrel, and the end result is hardly noticeable, but the balance and feel of the gun was significantly improved.   


Figure 1 Before Cut.

   The action of a hacksaw blade in not easily reversed, so it's recommend a person thinks long and hard before starting to cut.  Do the layout on the part with machinist dye, as illustrated in figure 1, and scribe the cut line in the dye.  Spend some time holding and looking at the gun picturing it being cut at that point.  It sometimes helps to use black tape over the cut section to help visualize how the gun will look after being cut.

     Once the decision is made to cut the barrel, clamp the gun in a good vise by securing the section of barrel to be removed.  Clamping  the section to be removed puts any vise damage or marks into the metal that will be thrown away. 

     Carefully and slowly use the hacksaw to cut the barrel along the line scribed into the machinist dye.  Try to cut a little more on the scrap side of the line.  Some people wrap electrical or masking tape around the barrel and cut along the edge of the tape.

Figure 2, Rough Cut

   The resulting cut will be quite rough (Figure 2), but should be reasonably square.  I have used files to carefully clean up the end of barrels in the past, but this time I looked around the workshop for something that will do a better job.  I found it in an inexpensive belt/disk sander that can be purchased at most discount tool suppliers.  


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     In order to get the barrel end perfectly square, clamp a piece of steel stock on the sanding table and set it to be square to the sanding disk.  Lay the barrel into place on the table and grind the muzzle using the steel stock as a guide.

Figure 3, Muzzle Facing

   The makeshift muzzle truing operation is illustrated in Figure 3.  This is a staged photo with me holding the gun in place against the guide block as I did when I was sanding the muzzle.  The result of this operation can be seen in Figure 4.

Figure 4, Faced Muzzle

     Figure 4 shows the clean the muzzle after sanding it with fine sandpaper in the makeshift muzzle machine.  The image clearly shows the rifling cut in the barrel and the smoothness of the end of the barrel.

     Cutting a clean and square barrel end is not the end of the process.  The next step is to use a fine domed or round grinding stone to clean the material around the inside diameter of the bore. 

       Use a fine rotary grinding stone to clean the muzzle and remove the ridge that was formed from the sanding.  This is done by pressing the stone with your hand and turning it in the muzzle very slowly and carefully.  The stone tool can be seen above the muzzle in Figure 5.

   It is important that you do not use any power equipment for this task.  The purpose is to just remove the ridge of material created by the cutting and sanding operations and not to remove any vast amount of material. 


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Figure 5, Overall Look

     A few things remained to be done before the work was finished.  Acetone should be used to clean off the remaining machinists dye.  Once it is clean of the dye, use the appropriate coarseness of emery cloth and a small pink eraser as the backer to smooth the outside of the muzzle where it meets the flats of the barrel.  This resulted in a clean job on this Remington.

     These instructions were intended to be generic on how to cut a barrel.  Those who remember last month's newsletter might recognize the gun as the one that received the new dovetail for the front sight.

     Observant readers might notice the unported .45 ACP Kirst Konverter in the photographs.  This is another conversion project intended to illustrate modifications that can be made to a Remington.  This particular gun is now ready to have the loading port cut in the frame, be sighted in,  and then be used in a CAS match.

     So what happened to the buckhorn sights that were supposed to be made in this newsletter?  A funny thing happened on the way to writing this copy of the newsletter.  It seems that my Rossi 92 started acting up and it would not have been possible to pull down my Winchester 94 backup gun and change the sights with my main gun out of action.  I would not have had time to sight it in for the two matches that occur as we approach the publication deadline.

     The buckhorn sight project will be done as soon as the Rossi is back together and ready for competition. My apologies to anyone who might have been waiting for that project this month.  I hope to do the buckhorn sights and the cutting of the loading port next month.


     Mohave Gambler